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Mexico City, Mexico

Recently, we stopped over in Mexico City for a few days, before heading on to Cancun to meet up with family for Thanksgiving.

Mexico City is both the capital of Mexico and the largest city in Mexico. It is also the most populous city in North America; actually, one of the most populous cities in the world, with almost 22 million people living in the Greater Mexico City area.

And, while it is crowded, it is also a beautiful city full of statues and murals almost everywhere we went. We stayed in the heart of the city on Paseo de la Reforma, just a couple of blocks from the Angel of Independence statue.

The Angel of Independence was built “to commemorate the centennial of the beginning of Mexico’s War of Independence. In later years it was made into a mausoleum for the most important heroes of that war. It is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Mexico City.” – Wikipedia

Here are some interesting landmarks, art pieces, statues and murals we saw while walking around the center of town.

Monument to the Revolution “is a memorial arch commemorating the Mexican Revolution…The structure also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910, Francisco I. Madero, Francisco “Pancho” Villa, Venustiano Carranza, Plutarco Elías Calles, and Lázaro Cárdenas.” – Wikipedia
Monument to the Boy Heros commemorates “six teenage military cadets who were killed defending Mexico City from the United States during the Battle of Chapultepec, one of the last major battles of the Mexican–American War, on 13 September, 1847.” – Wikipedia
Playing Cards bench seat
Monument of the Mother
Monument of Jose de San Martin
Murals seen during our walk around town
More murals
Even more murals

Whenever we explore a new city Joel looks up things to do. One of the sites he uses is Atlas Obscura, a website which lists “Cool, Hidden, and Unusual Things to Do” in different cities. For our trip to Mexico City, one of the unusual places Joel found was the Biblioteca Vasconcelos, “a jaw-dropping “megalibrary” that turns book-browsing into a geometric adventure.” – Atlas Obscura

Biblioteca Vasconcelos – it didn’t look like much from the outside
But the inside is seven stories tall and really impressive right from the moment you walk in the front doors.
A view of this “megalibrary” looking back towards the front entry.
Transparent walls and floors made it feel so interesting, yet it was surprisingly quiet inside.

“The majority (82%) of the residents in Mexico City are Catholic.” And, according to Wikipedia, “the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico is the largest archdiocese in the world.” So it wasn’t surprising to see so many churches and cathederals around town. What did surprise us was that they were so ornate inside. It was also surprising to see buildings that were many centuries old in a country outside of Europe.

Temple of Santo Domingo de Guzmán – Roman Catholic church originally built between the 16th & 18th centuries, with an on-site museum.
The main Altar is on the far wall behind Joel
The interior wall on the right was guilded in gold. It was stunning to see in person (pictures really don’t do it justice).
Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral – This grand Roman Catholic cathedral with many ornate chapels is Latin America’s oldest & largest.

“The city was originally built on a group of islands in Lake Texcoco by the Mexica (more commonly referred to as the Aztecs) around 1325, under the name Tenochtitlan. It was almost completely destroyed in the 1521 siege of Tenochtitlan and subsequently redesigned and rebuilt in accordance with the Spanish urban standards.” – Wikipedia

This cathedral was built in sections from 1573 to 1813 around the original church that was constructed soon after the Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan

It is hard to describe how grand the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is. “It has five naves consisting of 51 vaults, 74 arches and 40 columns. The two bell towers contain 25 bells. The tabernacle, adjacent to the cathedral, contains the baptistery and serves to register the parishioners. There are five large, ornate altars, a sacristy, a choir, a choir area, a corridor and a capitulary room. Fourteen of the cathedral’s sixteen chapels are open to the public. Each chapel is dedicated to a different saint or saints.” – Wikipedia

The cathedral is situated on top of the former Aztec sacred precinct near the Templo Mayor. The two bell towers are prominent in this picture.

“The cathedral is home to two of the largest 18th-century organs in the Americas. There is a crypt underneath the cathedral that holds the remains of many former archbishops. The cathedral has approximately 150 windows.” – Wikipedia

View of the choir grate – where the priest and/or a choral group sings the psalms
Chiluca, a white stone, covers the walls and floors and the tezontle frames the doors and windows. The organ pipes from one of the organs can be seen high above all the visitors.
Altar of the Kings – “In New Spain, it was customary to dedicate the main chapel of any Spanish cathedral to the ruling king, giving it the greatest importance and artistic wealth.” – Wikipedia
The Altar of the Kings is guilded and was completed in 1737. Construction continues today to make repairs from previous earthquakes.
The Plaza de la Constitución is better known, across Mexico, as the Zócalo. It’s the central plaza of the City and often referred to as the central plaza of the entire country. The National Palace is the long building all along the left.

The Metropolitan Cathederal is located on the north side of Constitution Plaza, next to the National Palace. “The National Palace (Spanish: Palacio Nacional) is the seat of the federal executive in Mexico. Since 2018 it has also served as the official residence for the President of Mexico.”

We walked through the historic district near the Zocalo. As you can imagine, with 22 million people in the city it was very crowded.
In Mexico City crosswalks featured a moving man
The House of Tiles (Casa de los Azulejos), an 18th-century palace with a blue-&-white tile facade in the historic district. Today it is home to a restaurant.
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), has been called the “art cathedral of Mexico”, and “has been the scene of some of the most notable events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and has hosted important exhibitions of painting, sculpture and photography.” – Wikipedia

While walking through the historic district we noticed so many storefronts with these beautiful quinceanera and bridal dresses. “A quinceañera is a celebration of a young woman’s 15th birthday that is a rite of passage from girlhood to womanhood. Quinceañeras are common in Latin American cultures, including Mexico, Central and South America, and the Caribbean.” – Wikipedia

Quinceanera dresses seen in many stores along República de Chile in the historic district

On our last day in town we took a walking tour through Frida Kahlo’s neighborhood of Coyoacan.

“Magdalena Carmen Frida Kahlo y Calderón (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈfɾiða ˈkalo]; 6 July 1907 – 13 July 1954) was a Mexican painter known for her many portraits, self-portraits, and works inspired by the nature and artifacts of Mexico. Kahlo’s work as an artist remained relatively unknown until the late 1970s, when her work was rediscovered by art historians and political activists.” – Wikipedia

We began our tour in Plaza de la Conchita.

Capilla de la Conchita in Plaza de la Conchita. Built in the early 1500’s, this is believed to be the oldest religious building in Mexico. The bell tower is still being repaired from earthquake damage in 2017.
The Sun and Moon carved above the front entrance are a tribute to the native Aztec beliefs.

Nearby is the Frida Kahlo Park, a park built to honor the Mexican artist. Her husband, Diego Rivera, was a prominent Mexican painter. His large frescoes helped establish the mural movement in Mexican and international art.

Statues of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo in the Frida Kahlo Park. These statues were created by the Mexican sculptor, Gabriel Ponzanelli. He was sent by his sculptor father, as a child of eight years old, to live with the Kahlos for one month.

In the heart of Coyoacan is the Jardin Centenario, a park famous for the fountain of the coyotes. For centuries, it was the atrium of the San Juan Bautista church and monastery, constructed from early 1522 and completed about 1552.

Coyoacan, means coyote in Spanish
Fountain of the Coyotes, by the same sculptor, Gabriel Ponzanelli, who sculpted the statues of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo in the nearby Frida Kahlo Park.
Parroquia San Juan Bautista (San Juan Bautista church and monastery). The church is to the left and the monastery is the low building with arches attached on the right.
The inside, especially the ceiling, is beautifully decorated
We were told this is one of the original gates at the entrance to the former atrium of the San Juan Bautista church and monastery

From the Jardin Centenario it is just a short walk to the Coyoacan Market, a vibrant (and busy!), 2-story marketplace in operation since 1921, with food stalls, apparel, art & souvenirs. We had some delicious street tacos here.

Inside the Coyoacan Market

Our last stop on our walking tour was the Frida Kahlo Museum, also known as La Casa Azul (The Blue House), this was Frida Kahlo’s home for most of her life.

Frida Kahlo Museum, Casa Azul (blue house), is where Frida spent most of her life, first with her family, then later with her husband Diego Rivera.
“Frida and Diego lived in this house 1929-1954”
Blueprint for the “House in Coyoacan”
Casa Azul, pictured from the garden
A place for art

Frida Kahlo was a woman whose life was marked by illness and tragedy from an early age. “At the age of six, Kahlo contracted polio: “it all started with a terrible pain on the upper part of my right leg”. As a result she was left with a withered and shorter right leg for life.” Then, “on September 17, 1925, when at the age of eighteen, she suffered a near fatal accident. As she was returning from school, an electric tramway car hit the bus she was riding on. The result was horrific: a steel handrail went straight through the left side of her body piercing her abdomen and uterus, leaving her unable to bear children. Her collarbone, spinal column and right foot were broken. This accident marked the beginning of her deteriorating physical condition…” – Frida Kahlo Museum

Self-portraits and drawings by Frida after her accident at age 18.

After her accident, “On the canopy of her bed, her mother installs the mirror that Frida uses to do self-portraits. She also has an easel adapted to allow her to paint horizontally.” – Frida Kahlo Museum

When she became bedridden, her mother placed a mirror above her bed. Many of her early self-portraits were done here
“From an ealy age, Frida has health issues…”
One of Frida’s braces
Frida’s brace and her back can be seen in this self-portrait painting
Frida painted on her body casts. The casts can be seen in front of pictures of Frida in bed.
The kitchen – The long blue counter on the back wall is actually a wood stove. The cutouts for wood are along the bottom and the chimney is outlined on the back wall between Frida and Diego’s names.
The wall art in the kitchen is actually many tiny ceramic pots/cups hung on the walls
Frida’s art studio in a room on the second floor.
Her wheelchair sits in front of her easel
This room had great light from so many windows.
Frida’s ashes are in the pre-Columbian urn at the center of the table in her room. The urn is in the shape of a frog, her nickname for her husband, Diego Rivera.
The garden
Disability: A body less than perfect

“…as a direct result of this physical condition (one leg shorter than the other from polio) that Kahlo began to choose long skirts. She wore three or four socks on her thinner calf and used shoes with a built up right heel to disguise her imperfections…” – Frida Kahlo Museum

“The pursuit for clothes that would obscure the evidence of disease and trauma was without doubt a primary force that would eventually lead her back to her mother’s heritage and to the comforts of the stylistically rigid and traditional forms of the Tehuana dress. The intensity of the adornment of this attire on the upper part of the body obliges the viewer to focus their attention above the waist, distracting the viewer from her legs and what she described as a body less than perfect.” – Frida Kahlo Museum

Frida’s dresses
One of Frida’s shoes. The bottom was built up to disguise that one leg was shorter than the other
Some of Frida’s body corsets

We learned so much about this famous artist. And visiting the home where she lived and painted helped us to connect with her. I found a virtual tour online from the museum’s website. https://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/virtual/?lang=en

We were up at sunrise for an early flight to Cancun. While at breakfast, an employee pointed out that smoke from the nearby volcano Popocatépetl. She told us it always smokes. When we looked it up on Wikipedia we learned, “Popocatépetl is currently active after being dormant for about half of last century. Its activity increased in 1991 and smoke has been seen constantly emanating from the crater since 1993.”

Popocatépetl – An active volcano near Mexico City

After a short two-hour flight we landed at the beachside resort of Cancun. My sister has lived here for over 20 years and we have visited often. It is one of our favorite places to go when we want to enjoy some beach time.

Cancun!

My parents were also in town to visit my sister for Thanksgiving. They had asked us to join them but we told them not this time. Then, we changed our minds and snuck into town without telling them.

We enjoyed a couple of beach days

After a couple of days on the beach, our friend Lois drove us over to my sister’s house and we knocked on the door. Surprise!!

We had a great time visiting with everyone.

Thanksgiving Dinner

There is an urban park near my sister’s house that is a naturally protected ecological area. We spent several days going for walks here.

Walking in Parque Ecológico Kabah

This park is home to many animals, but the one that I find most unusual is the Tejon. “The Spanish name for the coati in Mexico. However, the word “tejón” translates to “badger” in English, which can be confusing because there are also badgers in Mexico.” – Wikipedia

Tejones! Very cute, but keep your distance.
Coffee!

This turned out to be a very relaxing way to end a busy year of travel.

jj

Who does what here? Honestly, it’s really a good collaboration. We both decide where to go and plan the trip together. Once at our destination, Jeri takes most of the pictures and edits them for our website, though Joel has a much longer arm and is better at taking our selfies. Once the pictures are done then Jeri writes the posts and Joel edits them before they go live. Joel is also the IT guy when things go wrong (but what could possible go wrong when a computer is involved?)

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